The Grand Canyon. June 4th, 5th 6th 1982

Grand Canyon - Arizona
Friday, June 4th. 1982.

This is a day late, so I'11 recap on Thursday June 3rd before I talk about the 'humungous Canyon'. We left Phoenix at 8:30am, after rising about 6:30 I think. It was about 75deg F when we left and heading for 100.

Heading north from Phoenix you climb into the hills, still stark and barren. The vegetation is low desert bush and cactus until you get up a bit higher. We stopped at a rest area and saw a 40' cactus, with some more in the distance. As we went higher, the desert vegetation disappeared and low bushes were on the south side of the hills, then at about 4,000’ there was nothing in particular. We turned off the freeway onto the Oak Creek Canyon Road. About two miles down the road, we came across red, desert type mountains, the ones with the sides cut off, leaving exposed flutes and buttresses. Like the pictures of the G.C. The town of Sedona and outlying areas were built around the mountains. A church, St Peter's Chapel, was built into the side of one of the buttresses. The formations were nothing like I have ever seen before, and it was amazing to find people living there, I mean it was such a unique location. Driving on into Oak Creek Canyon, the vegetation changed to Pine trees, with a cool mountain stream running along the bottom.   

We had lunch by the creek and paddled in its cool waters.

Trout fishing was being done by a lot of people. Climbing out of the canyon is via a steep pass, with hairpin bends and narrow roads. The camper handled it quite well. At the top of the pass is a viewpoint, complete with Indian handicraft sellers. We bought two necklaces for Lorraine

and Jenny. The canyon was easily visible and photographed from here. On to Flagstaff. A typical mountain country town, very picturesque, with the San Francisco, peeks above, and a trace of snow. We bought groceries and money here.

The road onto the Grand Canyon went through the foothills of the mountains, pine trees and clean fresh air.  The snow on the mountain and the trees, together with stands of spruce or birch looked very picture postcard-ish.

The terrain changes into high country plains, I almost expected to see Lorne Green appear on a distant hill, out patrolling the Ponderosa. The approach to the Grand Canyon gets a bit more tree-y, and you can’t really see the canyon until you drive past the first lookout, Mather, even then it's hard to get a true look at its grandeur until you stop and get out and stand on the rim. The village is well set out, although not well signposted, it takes a few hours to get used to the directions. After tea, and an embarrassing accident with the sewer dump valve, we went to Mather lookout for our first real look at the Canyon.  

All the pictures and descriptions that you have heard about this wonder of the world can only prepare you about 10 percent for what it really looks like. At first you don't believe that you are seeing what you are seeing. The size, and depth of it are unbelievable. It just sits there, and over awes you in it's power to hold you transfixed. The sun setting casts long shadows over the formations, bringing out the red and ochre of the rocks. After am a11 too brief lock we went back to the camp site and settled in for the night.

Friday dawned, cool and fresh. We all slept well, and set out after breakfast to take a good look at the ‘Humungus Canyon'. Shuttle busses take you to each of the view points on the West rim, and these give a different view of the majesty of the canyon. Trying to see it all with two children is difficult, although once they got the hang of the fact that they had to go with us, they weren't too bad.

Saturday, June 5th 1982.
Grand Canyon

After we had looked at the west rim yesterday, we had lunch at Yavapi Point and had a brief look at the museum. We stopped at the laundry to do some much-needed washing and then went back to Yavapi point to watch the sunset. The western end of the canyon was backlit and was layers of blue ridges receding into the distance. The sunset in a clear sky and wasn't as spectacular as if it was cloudy.

The Eastern end of the canyon turned red as the sun set lower and then went from shadows to flat lit. The roll of prints should hopefully show the various stages of the setting of the sun.

This morning we went back to Yavapi point, looked at the museum and bought 2 books. The park offers various talks by the rangers, and we heard most of the one about the earliest inhabitants of the canyon. Indians were the earliest and some of their homes are still remaining in various parts.

The books set out more of the history.  After lunch, we drove to the head of the Kiabad trail and I packed my backpack and headed down. The first 10 minutes were very steep and switch-backed down the canyon. Being in the canyon instead of looking down on it gave me a much greater appreciation of its magnitude. It's almost like a drug of addiction, the natural high you get by being a part of a thing that grand and majestic is unbelievable until you experience it. Around each bend of the trial, you get a new perspective of the canyon, even though you see the same basic features below, beside, and above you. At times the wind threatens to sweep you off the side of the wall that the track is carved into. 

Going down is easy, although you tend to want to go too fast. After half an hour of walking, I stopped and prepared to turn back. I was amazed that I coped with the exercise in the altitude so well, especially after the way I felt yesterday, must have gotten used to the heights. The view inside the canyon is as majestic as the one from the top, except you feel more part of the canyon. I would have loved to have gone on, but time didn't allow. The self-timer on the camera took a couple of shots of me, and I started up. 

It was as hard as I thought, but the thought of being in Grand Canyon and being able to experience its majesty far outweighed any physical problems. I wished Janine could have been there, but it was enough to have experienced it by myself. It has given me the ambition to return one day end go all the way to the bottom and back, staying overnight. Now that would be an experience. 

Sitting here typing this, and knowing that it's still there is quite an experience, you feel drawn to its majesty and scope as if you want to always sit and wonder at its beauty. I can't write how the canyon affects you, it has to be experienced, pictures can only remind you of what it is like, as must the slight smell of perfume on the wind remind one of the days long ago. You see the sight before you, but you don't see it, you almost feel it, it must after time here, become part of you, something that will always be there, that no one can take away.

Sunday June 6th, 1982.

Our last day at the Grand Canyon. We took the shuttle bus to Hermits Rest this morning. They have a stone building with souvenirs and snacks etc. All very tastefully set out and blending into the surroundings. The canyon here seems not as wide and the points on which the viewing areas are, are adjacent to steep bluffs and cliffs, giving a closer look at the canyon. The river, 1 mile below, is easier to see, as is the grand rapids, running up to 10 feet high, although from the top they look like small ripples. The canyon has seven different weather zones from the desert at the bottom to high mountain at the top. 

As wide a range as there is from Canada to Mexico, 300 miles in latitude for every 1000 feet in altitude. We stopped off at 'The Abyss' and Times Point on the way back, with more variety in views of the canyon. We had lunch in the car park and then drove to 'Grandview' lookout. It certainly gives a wide panorama of both ends of the canyon. We stopped on the way back and had afternoon tea by a lookout along the road. It was amazing to think that we were having a cup of tea alongside one of the world’s seven wonders. 

I think I've shot about 3 rolls of film, hope that there are a few that will be worth the time and money. Tomorrow we will get up early and head for Bryce Canyon, may not get that far as it’s a bit longer than we first thought.

But an early start before the kids get up should help. Until then hope to see the Grand Canyon just after sunrise, would be good.  (Doc 3)